Not all sequins are created equal. While they might look similar at first glance, the world of sequins encompasses a surprising variety of styles, each with distinct characteristics that affect how a dress looks, moves, and feels. Understanding these differences can help you make more informed decisions when shopping for sequin dresses and better appreciate the craftsmanship behind your favourite sparkly garments.
From traditional flat sequins to theatrical paillettes to the innovative reversible varieties that have taken Instagram by storm, each type creates a unique visual effect and comes with its own set of considerations for wear and care. Let's explore the fascinating world of sequin varieties.
Flat Sequins: The Classic Choice
Flat sequins are the most common type you'll encounter in ready-to-wear fashion. These are thin, typically round discs that lie flat against the fabric, usually attached through a single hole in the centre. When light hits a flat sequin, it reflects cleanly off the surface, creating a consistent sparkle that's both elegant and eye-catching.
Characteristics of Flat Sequins
Flat sequins come in countless sizes, ranging from tiny two-millimetre discs to larger statement-making varieties. They're typically made from plastic polymers, though metal versions exist for specialty applications. Because they lie flat against the fabric, garments made with these sequins tend to have a smooth profile that's comfortable to wear and relatively durable.
The reflective quality of flat sequins depends on their finish. Metallic finishes create the most intense reflection, while matte or satin finishes offer a softer, more subtle sparkle. Holographic or iridescent flat sequins refract light into rainbow colours, creating a multidimensional effect that's particularly popular for party and festival wear.
Flat sequins are ideal for elegant evening wear, professional settings where subtle sparkle is preferred, and any occasion where you want a refined, classic look.
Cupped or Faceted Sequins
Cupped sequins, sometimes called faceted or domed sequins, have a three-dimensional shape that creates a distinctly different light effect compared to their flat counterparts. Instead of reflecting light in a single direction, cupped sequins scatter light in multiple directions, creating a more dynamic, dimensional sparkle.
How They're Different
The cup shape means these sequins don't lie completely flat against the fabric. This creates more texture and visual depth in the finished garment, with shadows playing across the surface as you move. The effect is more theatrical and dramatic than flat sequins, making cupped varieties popular for performance costumes and statement occasion wear.
Cupped sequins can be more delicate than flat varieties because their raised edges are prone to catching on things. However, their dimensional quality also means they can disguise imperfections in the underlying fabric and create visual interest even when stationary.
Paillettes: Drama and Movement
Paillettes are larger, usually disc-shaped embellishments that are attached at only one edge rather than through a central hole. This attachment method allows them to dangle and move independently, creating extraordinary drama and movement. When you see a dress that seems to ripple and shimmer with every step, chances are good that it's embellished with paillettes.
The Unique Appeal of Paillettes
Because paillettes hang freely from their single attachment point, they create a cascading, almost liquid effect. Light catches each paillette at different angles as you move, creating a mesmerising display that flat sequins simply can't match. The sound of paillettes—a soft, rhythmic clicking as they move—adds to their theatrical appeal.
Paillettes require more careful handling than standard sequins. Their dangling nature makes them more prone to snagging, and they can become bent or misaligned if stored improperly. However, for high-impact occasions where drama is desired, paillettes are unmatched.
- Size: Generally larger than standard sequins, often 10mm or more
- Attachment: Single edge attachment allows free movement
- Effect: Dramatic, cascading sparkle with visible movement
- Best for: Red carpet events, performances, statement pieces
Reversible or Flip Sequins
Reversible sequins, also known as flip sequins or mermaid sequins, took social media by storm when they emerged as a fashion trend. These innovative sequins feature two different colours on each side and are attached in a way that allows you to brush them in different directions, revealing different colours or creating patterns.
How They Work
Each reversible sequin is essentially two layers bonded together, with a different colour on each side. They're attached loosely enough that running your hand across the fabric flips the sequins over, changing the visible colour. This creates an interactive element that's particularly popular in casual wear, children's clothing, and novelty fashion items.
While fun and engaging, reversible sequins do have practical considerations. They can be less comfortable than traditional sequins because the loose attachment creates more texture against the skin. They're also more prone to catching on things and may not hold their "set" position as well as you might hope.
Reversible sequins are perfect for casual, playful pieces but may not be the best choice for formal occasions where you want a consistent, polished appearance.
Specialty Sequin Types
Shaped Sequins
While round sequins dominate the market, shaped sequins—stars, hearts, flowers, leaves, and other designs—add unique character to garments. These specialty shapes are often used as accents or to create specific patterns and designs. They're particularly popular in theatrical costumes, children's wear, and craft applications.
Holographic and Iridescent Sequins
Holographic sequins contain a special film that refracts light into rainbow colours, while iridescent sequins have a pearlescent quality that shifts colour depending on the angle of view. Both types create magical, multi-dimensional effects that work beautifully under stage lighting or the flash of party photography.
Matte and Satin Finish Sequins
Not everyone wants maximum shine. Matte sequins have a flat, non-reflective surface that creates texture and visual interest without intense sparkle. Satin finish sequins fall between matte and metallic, offering a soft sheen that's elegant and understated. These options are excellent for daytime wear or occasions where subtle embellishment is preferred.
Sequin Application Methods
Beyond the sequins themselves, how they're attached to fabric significantly affects the garment's look, durability, and care requirements.
Sewn Sequins
Traditionally, sequins are individually sewn to fabric, either by hand or machine. Hand-sewn sequins are the most secure and allow for precise placement, but they're also the most labor-intensive and expensive. Machine-sewn sequins offer a good balance of durability and cost-effectiveness.
Sequin Fabric
Many contemporary sequin dresses are made from pre-made sequin fabric, where sequins are applied to a mesh backing in the manufacturing process. This allows for more affordable production and consistent coverage, though the sequins may be less securely attached than individually sewn versions.
Heat-Transfer and Adhesive Sequins
Some garments feature sequins applied with heat-transfer methods or adhesives. While cost-effective, these attachment methods are generally less durable than sewn sequins and require extra care during washing and wearing.
When shopping for quality sequin dresses, look at how the sequins are attached. Check for any loose sequins or threads, and gently test whether sequins move freely. Higher-quality garments will have securely attached sequins with no gaps or irregularities.
Choosing the Right Sequin Type for Your Needs
With so many options available, how do you choose the right sequin type for your needs? Consider these factors:
- Occasion formality: Flat sequins suit formal events; paillettes add drama; reversible sequins work for casual occasions
- Comfort requirements: Flat sequins are generally most comfortable against the skin
- Movement needs: If you'll be dancing, paillettes create beautiful movement effects
- Durability concerns: Flat, securely sewn sequins are most durable for repeated wear
- Photography considerations: Different sequin types photograph differently; consider what will look best in photos
Understanding sequin varieties helps you appreciate the craftsmanship behind sequin fashion and make choices that align with your specific needs and preferences. Whether you prefer the classic elegance of flat sequins, the drama of paillettes, or the playfulness of reversible varieties, there's a perfect sequin type waiting to help you sparkle.