The sparkle of sequins has captivated humanity for millennia. From ancient civilisations adorning themselves with glittering gold discs to today's sustainable fashion innovations, the history of sequins is a fascinating journey through human creativity, craftsmanship, and our enduring love of all things that shimmer. Understanding this rich heritage can deepen our appreciation for the sequin dresses we wear today and connect us to a tradition that spans cultures and centuries.
Let's trace the evolution of sequins from their ancient origins to their current place in fashion, exploring how these tiny reflective discs have maintained their allure across thousands of years.
Ancient Origins: The First Sparkle
The word "sequin" derives from the Arabic word "sikka," meaning coin, and later the Italian "zecchino," a gold coin minted in Venice. But the practice of decorating clothing with small reflective discs predates both terms by thousands of years. Archaeological evidence suggests that ancient Egyptians used small gold discs to adorn the garments of royalty as early as 1400 BCE. King Tutankhamun's famous burial treasures included garments decorated with gold sequin-like embellishments.
In ancient India, artisans created "badla" work—intricate embroidery featuring flattened metal pieces—that continues to influence sequin techniques today. These early craftspeople understood what modern fashion designers still appreciate: the way small reflective surfaces catch and scatter light creates an effect that's both mesmerising and luxurious.
The Venetian gold coin called the "zecchino" was so widely used that its name eventually came to describe any small, coin-like decorative disc—giving us our modern word "sequin."
Medieval to Victorian Eras
Throughout the medieval period and into the Renaissance, metal sequins remained a symbol of wealth and status. Only the aristocracy could afford the labor-intensive process of creating and applying these embellishments. Metal sequins—primarily in gold, silver, and copper—adorned court dress, ecclesiastical vestments, and ceremonial garments across Europe and Asia.
During the Victorian era, the industrial revolution began to democratise sequin production. New stamping technologies made it possible to produce metal sequins more efficiently, though they remained relatively expensive. Victorian fashion embraced jet beading and subtle embellishment, with sequins appearing on evening wear, accessories, and theatrical costumes.
The 1920s: Sequins Meet the Modern Age
The 1920s marked a revolutionary turning point in sequin history. The Art Deco movement and the jazz age created unprecedented demand for glamorous, attention-grabbing fashion. Flapper dresses dripping with sequins became the defining look of the era, with women dancing the Charleston in dresses that scattered light with every movement.
This era also saw significant innovations in sequin production. Gelatin-based sequins emerged as a cheaper alternative to metal, making sparkle accessible to a broader market. However, these early plastic alternatives had limitations—they were delicate, could melt in heat, and didn't last particularly well. Still, they democratised glamour in ways that metal sequins never could.
The Rise of Hollywood
The golden age of Hollywood further cemented sequins' association with glamour and celebrity. Costume designers like Adrian, Edith Head, and Travis Banton created legendary sequined gowns for stars like Jean Harlow, Marlene Dietrich, and Greta Garbo. The combination of new lighting technology and reflective costumes created unforgettable on-screen moments that influenced fashion for decades to come.
Mid-Century Developments
The 1950s brought significant material innovations to sequin production. The development of plastic polymers led to more durable, cost-effective sequins that could be produced in an endless variety of colours and finishes. Mylar sequins, introduced in the 1960s, offered unprecedented brilliance and durability, becoming the industry standard that largely persists today.
The disco era of the 1970s represents perhaps the peak of sequin popularity in modern fashion. Studio 54 and its global counterparts were filled with dancers in head-to-toe sequins, and the trend extended well beyond nightclubs. Sequined tops, jumpsuits, and dresses became mainstream fashion items, worn not just for special occasions but for everyday glamour.
The 1970s disco era democratised sequins like never before, transforming them from occasional-wear luxuries into accessible fashion staples that anyone could wear.
The 1980s and 1990s: Excess and Reaction
The 1980s embraced excess in fashion, and sequins were no exception. Dynasty-style power dressing featured dramatic sequined evening wear, while pop stars like Madonna and Cher made sequins part of their iconic looks. The decade's "more is more" philosophy meant bigger, bolder, and more heavily embellished designs.
The 1990s brought a reaction against this excess. Minimalist fashion dominated, and sequins fell somewhat out of favour in mainstream fashion circles. However, they never disappeared entirely—they remained essential in evening wear, performance costumes, and for those who simply loved sparkle regardless of trends.
The 2000s to Today: A Sequin Renaissance
The early 2000s saw sequins return to fashion prominence. Designers began incorporating them in fresh, unexpected ways—not just on evening gowns but on casual wear, accessories, and even daytime pieces. The high-low fashion movement meant that sequins appeared on everything from runway couture to high street fast fashion.
Today, we're experiencing what might be called a sequin renaissance. Contemporary designers approach sequins with creativity and innovation, challenging traditional notions of when and how sparkle should be worn. Daytime sequins, sequin blazers for the office, and casual sequin accessories have all become increasingly mainstream.
Sustainability and the Future of Sequins
As fashion increasingly grapples with its environmental impact, the sequin industry faces important questions. Traditional plastic sequins are made from petroleum-based materials and don't biodegrade—meaning every sequin ever made still exists somewhere on the planet. This has prompted innovation in sustainable alternatives.
Several companies now produce biodegradable sequins made from plant-based cellulose that break down naturally over time. Others are developing recycling programs for sequined garments. While sustainable sequins currently represent a small portion of the market, awareness is growing, and major brands are beginning to incorporate eco-friendly options into their collections.
- Plant-based sequins: Made from cellulose derived from sustainable sources
- Recycled plastic sequins: Created from reclaimed ocean plastic or recycled materials
- Bio-based alternatives: Developed from algae, corn starch, or other renewable sources
- Vintage and secondhand: Giving existing sequined garments new life
Sequins in Australian Fashion
Australia has its own relationship with sequin fashion, shaped by our climate, lifestyle, and cultural events. The Australian party season, stretching from Melbourne Cup in November through Christmas and New Year, drives significant demand for sparkly attire. Our warm climate means sequin dresses often need to work in conditions that would be considered unusual in the Northern Hemisphere—think outdoor evening events in summer heat.
Australian designers have contributed to sequin innovation, creating styles that suit our active lifestyle and climate while maintaining glamour. The rise of Australian fashion on the global stage has also brought our unique aesthetic—relaxed elegance meets high shine—to international attention.
Australia's position as a Southern Hemisphere nation means our sequin "season" runs opposite to Europe and North America. Our summer holiday parties drive December sequin sales, while winter galas occur in June and July.
Why Sequins Endure
Despite changing trends and evolving technology, the fundamental appeal of sequins remains unchanged across millennia: humans are drawn to sparkle. There's something deeply satisfying about the way light plays across reflective surfaces, creating movement and interest even when standing still. Sequins transform ordinary garments into something magical, offering a kind of everyday enchantment.
From ancient gold coins to modern sustainable innovations, sequins have proven remarkably adaptable. They've survived fashion cycles, material innovations, and changing cultural attitudes about glamour and display. As long as humans celebrate special occasions and seek ways to express joy through what we wear, sequins will continue to sparkle in our wardrobes and our cultural imagination.